Bamboo fabric, explained honestly
Written for the person behind your counter. If a customer asks what bamboo fabric is and whether it is really better, this page is the answer you can give them without overclaiming.
What it actually is
Almost every bamboo garment sold anywhere in the world, ours included, is made from bamboo viscose or bamboo lyocell. Bamboo cellulose is dissolved into a solution, extruded through a spinneret and regenerated as a fibre, which is then spun into yarn and knitted or woven.
It is a regenerated cellulose fibre. It is not a mechanically processed bast fibre in the way linen or hemp are. A true mechanically processed bamboo fibre does exist, usually sold as bamboo linen, but it is coarse, expensive and almost never what is on a shelf labelled "bamboo".
We say this plainly because a number of suppliers do not, and because regulators on both sides of the Tasman have taken an interest in bamboo claims. If your staff describe our garments as bamboo viscose, they are describing them correctly.
Viscose and lyocell are not the same process
Both start with bamboo cellulose. The difference is the solvent and what happens to it. Conventional viscose uses carbon disulphide, which has to be managed carefully. Lyocell uses an amine oxide solvent in a closed loop, where more than 99% of the solvent is recovered and reused.
Our woven sleepwear is lyocell and our jersey ranges are viscose.
How it compares to cotton
At the same fabric weight, in a like-for-like single jersey. Bamboo is not better at everything, and it helps to know where it is not.
| Property | Bamboo viscose | Combed cotton | What it means on the floor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand feel | Fluid, cool, slippery | Dry, structured | The customer notices in the first two seconds |
| Moisture regain | Approx. 13% | Approx. 8% | Absorbs more sweat before feeling wet |
| Drying rate | Faster | Slower | Does not stay clammy against the skin |
| Drape | High | Moderate | Hangs better on the rack and on the body |
| Thermal behaviour | Regulating | Insulating | Sells in both summer and winter |
| Abrasion resistance | Moderate | High | Not the fibre for workwear or denim |
| Wet strength | Lower | Higher | Gentle wash matters; we blend to compensate |
| Pilling | Low | Low to moderate | Holds its face longer than an acrylic blend |
This is why our activewear is blended with recycled polyester and our knitwear with combed cotton. Pure bamboo is lovely next to the skin and not the right answer for a garment that has to take abrasion.
Certification
| Standard | Applies to | Held by | What it actually covers |
|---|---|---|---|
| OEKO-TEX Standard 100 | All six ranges | The mill, per article | The finished garment, tested for residual solvents, formaldehyde, heavy metals and restricted dyestuffs |
| OEKO-TEX Class I | Babywear & Kids | The mill, per article | The strictest class, required for articles in direct contact with the skin of children under three |
| Closed-loop solvent recovery | Lyocell lines | Process, not a certifying body | The lyocell process uses an amine oxide solvent that is recovered and reused in a closed loop, typically recovering more than 99% of it |
Certification sits with the mill and with the article, not with us as the importer, which is the honest way to describe it. Current certificates are available to account holders on request and we will send the PDFs the same working day. We hold nothing that certifies bamboo viscose as organic, because no such certification exists for a regenerated fibre.
Care, and the one thing to tell customers
No fabric softener. That is the single most useful thing your staff can say at the counter. Softener leaves a coating on the fibre that flattens exactly the hand-feel your customer just paid for, and it reduces absorbency at the same time.
| Wash | Cold gentle machine wash, similar colours |
|---|---|
| Detergent | Mild liquid. No bleach, no optical brighteners |
| Softener | Do not use |
| Dry | Line dry in shade, or tumble dry low |
| Iron | Warm, inside out if printed |
| Dry clean | Not required |
Shrinkage
All fabric is pre-shrunk before make-up. Expect no more than 3% on length after five washes when the care instructions are followed. We test every production run and will not release stock that fails.
Feel it before you commit
One unit per style at wholesale, no minimum. The fabric argument is much easier to make with the garment in your hand.